WHAT THE PAPERS SAY

Michael’s predecessor Paul Kitching earned Juniper its Michelin star back in 1998 whilst the AA honoured his reign with four rosettes – both accolades being unique to Greater Manchester. Now Michael is set to maintain the exceptionally high standards set by Paul whilst stamping his own distinctive creativity and technical prowess upon a menu proven at Penzance restaurant, The Abbey which he took over in January 2008.

It’s hard to feel short-changed when a chef has taken the trouble to reduce veal stock over 84 hours, then gently poached langoustines in it for a further six to form the centrepiece of a pearl barley risotto. Intensely suffused with a crustace jus from the langoustine shell, this was a signature dish writ large..... Initial impressions were of a chef, built on massive lines, who is gentle with his raw materials, letting each part of a dish speak for itself softly. Riemenschneider is sourcing the majority of his fish from Newlyn in Cornwall. Our second course of pan-fried scallop answered the question: why? So many scallops are rubbery apologies. This one you could peel little strips of tender, sweet flesh from.... I am obviously an instant fan but not one with deep pockets. Alas, I know I’m going to find its quality irresistible, as will the Michelin inspectors, I’m sure. Neil Sowerby, Manchester Evening News/citylife.co.uk, October 2008, awarding a clean 5/5 sweep for food, service and decor. Click here to read full article. We chose to to take this mind-boggling, nine-course journey [degustation menu] into Riemenschneider's mind, emerging exhausted but rather pleased..... My favourite dish, for intensity and sheer chickeny delight, was tender poached chicken in a powerful crystal clear broth, with a sharp, fat caper berry sticking out of the cloud-cover of chicken foam..... ...My friend's favourite came along next: langoustine tails, poached in veal stock but retaining their essential seaside sweetness, served with sprue asparagus and a pearl barley risotto. Another dish, another miserable ingredient made good: the firm grains were far from the swollen blobs that lurk in wholesome soups.... In one sense, not much has changed at Juniper. It always did very gopod food, and it still does. But though the old regime will be missed, the changes are for the better. It's more relaxed, more accessible and less likely to confuse..." Emma Jean Sturgess, Metro, October 2008, awarding 4/5 I was heartened to discover, however, that Juniper is being taken over by the young and talented Michael Riemenschneider. At just 26, he has an impressive track record, taking in two and three-starred restaurants in Germany, Spain, Switzerland, London and Wales.....Riemenschneider will be cooking the same menu as at the Abbey, so I sneak a look at what we have in store. It’s sophisticated without being esoteric and I can’t help thinking that this new Juniper might have broader appeal..... ..I’m grateful that he likes our fair city so much: it means he’ll be spending the next six months here, ensuring that his new team are trained to perfection. He will also be bringing the entire kitchen team up from the Abbey for four weeks to help train his new crew, made up of chefs from one-, two- and three-starred Michelin establishments all over Europe. Now, that’s how to open a restaurant." Mary Ellen MacTague, who has cooked under Heston Blumenthal and Paul Heathcote among others, Manchester Evening News, October 3rd 2008 Click here to read full article. Sleuth has good news about Juniper in Altrincham which disappeared from the Good Food Guide’s Top 40 this time round due to the departure of its long time chef Paul Kitching. It’s been taken over by Swiss chef Michael Riemenschneider who has built up a reputation in Cornwall for tip-top excellence. He’ll re-open the restaurant later this month and says, “We will be cooking Michelin standard cuisine.” Sleuth can’t wait. Manchester Confidential September 2008. Riemenschneider said that apart from the Lowry Hotel, The French at the Midland Hotel and MC at Abode, there was a lack of fine dining in Manchester. He added: “There is a lot of potential around here. People are waiting for something special to come. In Altrincham you have the whole scope of clientele. You have to build up your reputation very quickly for people to come. I do not want it to be an “in” restaurant because “in” restaurants always go out of fashion. I want people to appreciate the food and not come there because they can be seen in it. I am all about standards in food.” Paul Beckley head chef at the French, in the Midland Hotel said: “I think there is a lack of high profile restaurants in Manchester which is a shame for such a big city. I don't know why that is really; maybe Northerners have not appreciated that level of food. They think you get small portions, which is not the case. “Riemenschneider moving here is healthy competition. He comes with a good reputation — to see those kinds of chefs up here is very good for Manchester, it raises the profile.” Crains Manchester Business, September 2008 Click here to read full article. A meal in the Michelin-starred restaurant [ The Abbey ] upstairs is a must, for new chef Michael Riemenschneider has created a menu to die for. The Observer, April 2008 Judging by the innovative menus, top-notch local ingredients & Michael’s technically assured cooking, we reckon his star is also on the rise…..From exquisite amuse bouche through to impressive petits fours, expect an succession of visually stunning dishes with intense flavours & textures. Highlights for us included a starter of langoustine with a veal-enriched pearl barley risotto & seafood jus, & exquisite halibut, served with pickle, cucumber jelly & mille-feuille. Excellent ice-creams & sorbets often appear in striking desserts. There is also much to applaud on the all-round wine list . Toptable.co.uk. Click here to read full article. The Abbey in Penzance has been named in a prestigious 'best of the best' list of the top 100 UK restaurants. Eat Out magazine compiled the comprehensive guide after scouring all the leading guides, trade journals and awards over the last year. Head chef Michael Riemenschneider, who joins Nathan Outlaw in Fowey as the only two Cornwall representatives, says he is delighted by the accolade. “It really means a lot to be acknowledged alongside the very best after being open for just a few months,” he said. “The response has been amazing and people who travel down from London tell me that we have the same standard of food here. Rising star Michael, who graduated first in the German Youth Masters of Cooking in 2001, has already worked at a number of distinguished Michelin-starred kitchens across Europe. His painstaking approach and almost obsessive attention to detail have brought his complex and surprising dishes to the attention of food writers throughout the land. Thisiscornwall.co.uk Click here to read full article.